Easter marks the end of Semana Santa, the religious celebration that has been happening in Seville (and other parts of Spain) since Palm Sunday. And what a celebration it was! Sevillanos seem to either love or hate this time in Seville. The ones that love it attend one paso after another, while the ones that don't often leave for the beach or mountains for the majority of the week.
Although it had it's frustrations, I am so happy that I decided to stay in town for my first Semana Santa. For being someone who doesn't practice any form of religion, the tradition, culture, and reverence that were part of this week were absolutely fascinating to me. Let's see if I can briefly explain Semana Santa:
About 60 hermandades (brotherhoods of churches) from all around Seville participate in Semana Santa. On a given day of the week, they leave their church and march to the Cathedral in the center of Seville, and back. For some churches that are close by, this takes about 6 hours. For others, it can take up to 14!
The procession starts with nazarenos, men and women dressed in long robes and pointed hoods (very reminiscent of KKK members) who carry candles. The hoods are quite tight and uncomfortable, a way for nazarenos to show their penance. Some also march barefoot as another form of penance. I can only imagine what 14 hours of walking barefoot through cobblestone streets can do to you!
Nazarenos
After the nazarenos comes the paso, a huge "float" that has a statue of either Jesus or the Virgin Mary. These pasos are works of art, made of gold, silver, wood, candles, flowers, etc. They are incredible! Underneath are 25-60 men who carry the paso on their neck and shoulders. They are covered, so it seems as though the paso moves on it's own. They follow a beat from one of the leaders of the procession.
The paso of La Macarena - one of the oldest and most famous in Seville
Behind the paso is usually a band that performs a variety of songs specific to Semana Santa. As the paso passes, people often touch it and make the sign of the cross. Nazarenos will hand out pictures of the Virgin or Jesus to people in the crowd, as well as candy to children. In addition, children often try to make wax balls out of the candle wax the nazarenos have. There are other parts to the procession as well, but these are the main ones.
Many Sevillanos wait all year just to see their specific hermandad. It is not unusual to see some very emotional responses as they pass. Although I can see why many people actually leave the city during this week (getting around the city becomes almost impossible!), I am so happy I was here to experience it -- what a fantastic cultural week in Spain!
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