Just a Friday afternoon in Seville!

Although it's the end of January, it's already starting to seem like spring in Sevilla! Cloudless skies, everyone enjoying a beer outside in Plaza del Salvador on a Friday afternoon, beautiful temperatures . . . I love it!

mi compañeras de piso

Eva, me, and Louise enjoying Christmas dinner at La Tasca

I am currently living with these two lovely ladies in Sevilla. Eva is from Amsterdam and Louise is from France. Although English, French, and Dutch represent our native languages, Spanish is our common one. Both Eva and Louise speak Spanish fluently - I'm so jealous! They are both here studying through the EU's Erasmus program (I wish the US would develop something like it!).

Although I'm about 9 years older than both of them, I feel like they are so much more responsible for the house, mainly because they can communicate with our landlord and I can't! They are fantastic girls - I feel so lucky to be living with them!

Suave Spaniards and Italian Stallions

Keep it in the locker room, boys!

It's no secret that Latin and Italian men are stereotypically known for their "machismo." After about 10 days in Italy and 6 months in Spain, my experiences have led me to believe that this isn't a stereotype, but a fact.

It constantly amazes me how men make no secret of their appreciation of women through what they say, the looks they give, and their body language! Part of me loves it, too. Overall, I think it's just a cultural thing and is generally harmless. You can't help but smile when a 60-year-old man says, "Que guapa, que simpatica, que bonita," when you're walking down the street!

It's when a man who is obviously with his girlfriend or wife and turns around to continue watching another woman walking down the street or makes kissing sounds at you that makes it not quite so endearing.

I was in Italy this past weekend and had two uncomfortable interactions with men. One was while sitting in a coffee shop in Milan. I was just reading a book and enjoying a glass of wine when a man (who I later realized was quite drunk) came up and began speaking to me in rapid-fire Italian, which I don't understand at all. I tried to be polite, then I tried to ignore him. Neither seemed to work and he eventually grabbed my hand and kissed it, as well as continuously tried to touch my hair and back. On what level is that EVER okay - especially on a Saturday afternoon in a coffee shop?!

Then, while on the plane from Milan to Seville, I happened to be sitting next to a Spanish man. We were talking for a little bit (it was 6:30am, so I was trying to talk as little as possible) and then he handed me his business card and asked if I wanted to get coffee or go out sometime in Seville. I told him I was just visiting someone in Milan and didn't think so. He then proceeded to grab my hand and kiss it, lay a hand on my leg, and hug me at the end of the flight! What?! Not okay!

I love the affection in these cultures, but I really didn't like either of these situations. So, Suave Spaniards and Italian Stallions, feel free to give girls a "Guapa" or "Bella" but leave the creepy touching behind . . .

Andalucian Slang - oh, how I love it!

I've talked to a number of people from home this week and one of their first questions is always, "So, are you fluent in Spanish yet?" to which I always have to sadly reply, "Not even close."

I know my Spanish has improved immensely over the past few months - there's no way it couldn't have! However, it is nowhere near where I would like it to be. I think this is the case for a couple of reasons:

*Although I speak Spanish with my roommates, waiters, people in the streets, etc., the majority of my day is still in English. I spend time planning in English for the lessons I'm going to teach, then spend about 5 hours a day teaching in English.

*My closest friends here are all native English speakers because we met during CELTA training. In addition, we actually understand what each other is saying, which makes us that much closer.

*When speaking with people that are bilingual, they will usually switch to English if they know that is the language I understand better. I wish they would continue speaking in Spanish, but I understand why they don't.

*Although I would consider myself a very productive person in general, I am not a very self-motivated studier. I'll take out my Spanish book or try to do some work on the internet, but I get distracted very easily. I think taking a private lesson (when I have some extra money) would be a great investment because someone would be holding me accountable for learning.

*And finally, I think I don't use nearly enough Spanish slang. Being someone who rarely uses English slang, this isn't exactly surprising. But in Seville, it's essential and it's part of what makes me love the culture here even more. My newest goal is to start incorporating more of it into conversation.

So, hopefully the next time you talk to me, you'll hear some of these phrases . . .

*digame/dime - talk to me (used when answering the phone, in stores, and to start a conversation)

*claro - clear

*vale - ok

*que tal? - what's happening/going on? (to which no response is really necessary, yet I still continue to give one!)

*que guap@ - beautiful, handsome, honey (this seems to be used as a term of physical appreciation, as well as one of endearment)

*que chula - that's really cool

*que fuerte - used in response to something negative (The bus was late? Que fuerte.)

*puta madre - "that's the s***"

*no pasa nada - don't worry about it

*no te preocupes - don't worry about it

¿Vale?

To Stay or Not to Stay??

This is the question my mind has been incessantly asking the past few weeks. I don't know if it's the new year, having a few weeks off with more free time, or what, but I can't stop thinking about it, even though I have six months before I really need to decide!

On one hand, I have very much been missing having my own classroom, the intensity of APS, and my own professional development. As nice as it has been to not feel stressed and to have lots of time for myself, I'm kind of tired of it! (As many Crawford friends and I have talked about, this confirms that some of us have personalities that just need stress in their lives - for better or worse!)

In addition, I hate the financial stress that I feel living abroad. Never in my life have I had so little money or had to watch it so carefully! Knowing that I'm about to turn 30 years old makes this a little difficult to handle . . . I feel that I'm getting to the point where I might need to "grow up" and be a bit more financially responsible.

On the other hand, I absolutely love living here! The culture of Spain is one that has very quickly pulled me in -- I love what is valued and appreciated in this country. The combination of the culture, lifestyle, traditions, and food is one I can't imagine leaving quite yet. I feel more balanced in my life than I have in a really, really long time.

I also love being in Europe and feel that there is so much more for me to see and explore. It's so much easier to do so while living here (however, not having a lot of money kind of slows down travel plans). I also don't think my Spanish will be where I want it to be after the next six months. I know I've improved a lot, but I have so much more to learn.

So - what to do?! As of yesterday, I have seven new hours a week of teaching, which is wonderful news! This will help to fill up some more time and means quite a bit of extra money. This news has improved my outlook immensely! I've also recently applied to the American and international schools in Barcelona and Madrid, in hopes of getting back into the classroom. (Although I would love to stay in Seville, it doesn't seem like there are many international school options.) I think teaching at an American or international school will provide the financial and legal security I've been missing . . .

Needless to say, at this point, nothing is decided! I will definitely be back in Denver on July 26th - I just don't know if it will be for good or an extended visit. I will be sure to keep you posted with any decisions I make. In the meantime, if you have any advice, I would love to hear it! Ciao!

Oh, to be a European citizen!

The Canals of Venice

A Copy of Michelangelo's David

Milan's Duomo

After my recent trip to Italy, I can't stop thinking about how much I wish I had EU citizenship (in addition to, not instead of the US :)! It's just amazing to me that after a 2.5 hour flight, I was in a country with a different language, culture, geography and history. And Italy was only 1 of about 50 different options! In the US, that's like flying from Indiana to Colorado -- definitely two very different places, yet not in quite the same way . . .

There is just so much within Europe that fascinates me! As cheesy as it sounds, when I was in Italy, I had many moments when I realized that I was actually in the place where Michelangelo sculpted David, where "The Godfather" series was based, where tons of religious history began, and more. It's so different than just reading about in a book or watching it in a movie.

After a trip like that, I have a feeling that my time in Europe will extend more than a year. There is just so much to see, learn about, and experience! It's much easier (and cheaper) to do so while living in Europe than in the US. Now I just need to work on the whole visa situation . . .

Holidays in Spain

Wow - it has been a crazy month! I had a wonderful time with my parents, as well as Nick. It was so great to see friends and family during the holidays. Although I missed being at home for Christmas, I'm actually so glad I stayed here for Christmas. It was such a cultural experience! Although the priorities are the same, Spaniards definitely celebrate Christmas a bit differently. For example:

"Nochebuena"

(Good Night/Christmas Eve)

This night is actually more important than Christmas Day. It's a time for family to enjoy a huge dinner together, as well as listen to villancicos (Spanish Christmas carols). Most families have a Belen (Bethlehem) set up in their houses. These nativity scenes can be seen all over the city as well.

A student of Anna's actually invited us over for dinner with her family. It was amazing! Dinner consisted of three courses - the first included chorizo, jamon, pulpo (octopus), cheese, picos, artichokes; the second was bacalao (salted cod) with a salmorejo (spicy tomato) sauce; and the third was pineapple slices with cinnamon, as well as chocolates. We also had wine, champagne, desert liquors, and mixed drinks. It was unbelievable!

The best part was when the family started dancing Sevillanos (flamenco dances) to thevillancicos. Around midnight, tons of friends started showing up and all of a sudden tambourines and drums accompanied all of the singing, clapping, and dancing. I was in heaven! Around 2:00, everyone left to "go to the street" for more drinks. Needless to say, it was quite a night!

Sevillano-style Dancing

Remnants of Dinner

"Navidad"

(Christmas)

Not all families celebrate Christmas, at least not like we do in the US. Papa Noel/Santa is relatively new to Spain. (Most presents come from The Three Kings on January 6th.) Families usually still get together and enjoy leftovers from the night before. A few of us that were in town enjoyed a late lunch, wine, and present-opening with one another. It was a great day!

Our Christmas Lunch

"Nochevieja"

(Old Night/New Year's Eve)

Wow - the traditions here in Spain for this night are fantastic! At midnight, everyone is supposed to eat one uva (grape) for each chime of the bell - 12 grapes in 12 seconds! In addition, you are also supposed to wear red underwear for good luck. However, this underwear has to be a gift from someone and no one can see you in it. You are also supposed to drop something gold into your champagne for good luck as well. Firecrackers are also set off all over the place.

We were actually in Italy for New Year's Eve. No grapes, but the red underwear tradition is there as well! I wish we could have seen the Spaniards celebrate!

Anna and I celebrating in Milan!

Three Kings Day

This day is much bigger than Christmas for most families. On January 5th, there are parades in most cities. The "kings" throw candy out to children (and apparently legs of ham in small towns!) during the parade. Children wake up on the 6th to find presents waiting for them.

Crazy Times at the Three Kings' Parade

My favorite part of traveling has always been seeing the differences between cultures. I feel so lucky to have been here to experience the holidays, while still spending time with new friends, talking to my parents and friends in the US, and feeling very lucky for all I have. Prospero Ano Nuevo!